Got new belts in, readjusted paddles. All ready to go back into the water but..... My son bought a new house and we need to update it for the loan to go completely through. So will be busy for next two weeks.

Was planning to take the boat out today, but found out that not only did the engine eat the belt, but had melted the clutch. Have to wait for part to come in. Lakes still high, so have that going for us.

Water conversion site  http://www.onlineconversion.com/waterweight.htm

Was doing some more research and found that you could use math to determine the needed torque from an engine to turn the wheel. I calculated that a wheel with a radius of 31" and 12" paddles would move 69.3 gal, or 578 lb. Using TurboCAD, I was able to find the area, and then multiply the 39" blade width to get the 16,000 cubic inch volume of water. Then divide by 4 (40:10 gear ratio of the drive chain) I would need an engine with a torque of about 145 lb. No wonder my Honda with only 35.6 lb torque nor my Kohler with an impressive 61.5 lb torque were very much overworked. 
Keeping the top of the paddle blades just above the waterline, a 5" blade will push 17 gal, or 140.9 lbs of water needing a torque of 35.3 lb, which would mean I could then use my Honda motor. But since the Kohler is already installed, I want to calculate the size of paddle blade to use. The Kohler has a torque of 61.5, times 4 for the ratio, pushing 246 lb. Now I just need to determine the volume that matches up to 246 lb. Playing with TurboCad, I found that a blade of 7" would  give a volume of 28.7 gal, or 239.5 lb. Perfect! 
Which is about what I had on the boat before I enlarged the paddle wheel. So it means that if I had taken in the extra weight of the rudder supports and the larger engine into my calculations, and realized the water level would be higher on the boat, then I would not have had to enlarge the paddle wheel to have the blade be in the water. So if I had left the wheel alone, I would be touring the lake months ago. 

Alrighty then!. Took boat out today and it did work better with a smaller paddle. Where the motor meets the torque requirements, I did not take in what the clutch was rated for. Ate another one. Will have to see what I can find and adjust the paddles further if required. 

Been doing some more research. My cousin advised I may want to use snowmobile clutches. Thank you Darrel. Found Comet 94c clutch, which is rated for up to 40 hp. Engagement is 1600-4600 rpm, which is great cause the Kohler ch1000  idle speed is 1200 rpm, and max torque is 61 ft-lbs at 2800 rpm Of course I can change out the springs in the clutch to engage at a different rpm if desired. Guesstimating the belt length, was interesting. Finally decided that the diameter of the clutch is 7 1/4" and the drive system top speed will be 1:1, where the belt is at its highest of 71/4 on the driver, so that means the belt will also be the same diameter on the driven. So finding a belt formula on the web and plugging in the distance between centers (I have 9 1/2") gave me a outer circumference on the belt of 41.7" Luckily I found a belt that would fit just right, if all my calculations were right. Cross your fingers.

Hey all. I have not been on vacation, abandoned my project, nor died, but have been working hard to finish remodeling my son's house. I hope to be finished by October, so then I can again play with my boat.

Yea! Finally got to a stopping point in my son's house. Bathrooms and garage all done. Told everyone that this week was to work and play with my boat. Was able to adjust everything to the new snowmobile clutch and driven set. Plan on taking boat out tomorrow morning.

Took boat out today. Worked pretty good, but still need a few tweaks. Need to adjust my control cable on the gear box. Had  trouble engaging forward. And the second thing I need to add to the boat is a partial skirt to cover the paddle wheel...to protect me from all the water the wheel throws. Thank God for my bulge pump, about drowned me when I put in full reverse. Plan to have glass company make me a Plexiglas curved cover that I will bolt onto some stringers to cover the forward part of the wheel. My wife took a small film of me in the lake via her phone. Unfortunately I do not know how to turn it upright.

Well priced the cost of a plexiglass cover and was told something more than $2500, but they could do a different material still clear, but thinner and I would have to have a curved frame for $450. So now designing a curved frame to go on the rear of the boat.

Been trying to finish up work at my son's house, but since I have submitted the Christmas Parade form, I have started to work on boat again. I have a Dec.5 deadline.

Setting up to take boat out again this Wednesday. Have new Plexiglas shield in place. Wanted shield to be transparent, so I could visually verify rudders turned as I wished.

I have to laugh. Took boat out today, and clear water shield worked perfectly. Unfortunately we had trouble with the gearbox. While trying to order a new one, I read the specs, and found it is rated only up to 16 hp. Now shopping for a gearbox rated higher, but now that I think about it, this will be the last part of the propulsion that has not been upgraded. I might even look for an automatic transmission.

Boat was in the annual Christmas Parade today. Thanks to my family and friends, we had a blast. Even won first place in the open adult division. Next plan is to find a gearbox, the one we have definitely has a stripped forward gear.