5/16/2018
Been a month, but have been able to resin the frame wood to seal it. Hopefully today we go out to get the motor. Looking for a small block auto-transmission gasoline at least 100 hp engine. Needs to fit in a 4' x 4' space, hopefully smaller. Thinking maybe a transverse engine would work best, meaning the transmission is 90 degrees to the block. Soon as I get the motor, I can then begin the modifications to convert it to cool using lake water, and use said water to cool the exhaust as well.
Been a month, but have been able to resin the frame wood to seal it. Hopefully today we go out to get the motor. Looking for a small block auto-transmission gasoline at least 100 hp engine. Needs to fit in a 4' x 4' space, hopefully smaller. Thinking maybe a transverse engine would work best, meaning the transmission is 90 degrees to the block. Soon as I get the motor, I can then begin the modifications to convert it to cool using lake water, and use said water to cool the exhaust as well.
5/22/2018
Yes! Was able to get a motor from a scrap yard. The fellow at the yard told us the car had problems with the rear, and that the motor ran when it was delivered to the yard, so we are full of hope that the motor will still work. Now we just need to get it out of the back of my pickup and then start taking off all the bit we do not need, such as the ac compressor. Engine is a 3VZ-FE with a front wheel drive transmission. Mainly went for the front wheel transmission so that the trans would not be long. We were extremely lucky at the junk yard. After finding the motor we wanted, we were not sure how to get it out of the car. A gentleman passed by and said he would pull then engine for $60. I told him if he could get it out I'd give him $100. Terry and I went to lunch and the engine was pulled and waiting for us when we got back. Had the yard hoist the engine into the back of our pickup and away we went.
Yes! Was able to get a motor from a scrap yard. The fellow at the yard told us the car had problems with the rear, and that the motor ran when it was delivered to the yard, so we are full of hope that the motor will still work. Now we just need to get it out of the back of my pickup and then start taking off all the bit we do not need, such as the ac compressor. Engine is a 3VZ-FE with a front wheel drive transmission. Mainly went for the front wheel transmission so that the trans would not be long. We were extremely lucky at the junk yard. After finding the motor we wanted, we were not sure how to get it out of the car. A gentleman passed by and said he would pull then engine for $60. I told him if he could get it out I'd give him $100. Terry and I went to lunch and the engine was pulled and waiting for us when we got back. Had the yard hoist the engine into the back of our pickup and away we went.
5/25/2018
Was able to get engine out of the back of my pickup using an engine hoist I had bought. Love my old gravel driveway, but not today. Had to use plywood to be able to roll my hoist around. Now have engine cleaned and placed in my shed, so I can begin work of stripping all that I do not need off it.
Was able to get engine out of the back of my pickup using an engine hoist I had bought. Love my old gravel driveway, but not today. Had to use plywood to be able to roll my hoist around. Now have engine cleaned and placed in my shed, so I can begin work of stripping all that I do not need off it.
6/22/2018
Well, have been studying the engine. Apparently these new engines require a small computer to run efficiently. So we went back to the junk yard to pull the ECM from the car we got the engine from, to find out that it had already been crushed. Not knowing any better we took one from another car of same make and model, but a year later (this is called foreshadowing.) Now I am trying to match the wires of the ECM to the engine, and being a novice...well it is slow going. If you are going to use an engine from a car to power your boat and looking at a car newer than 2000, then just buy the entire car and that way you can be sure to get all that you need. Or just spend the time to get everything from the car on the first trip. If the wiring doesn't work, then I am going to begin again with a new motor and do it that way. Luckily the ECM seems to have several wires the same color, so I was able to match up the coils, injectors, and several other items. Hopefully it will be enough to get the motor running. I may not need everything, such as the sensors and such. Course can't test the auto transmission till the engine is running. There was a large bundle of wires running into the passenger area to the ECM, a bundle of about 100 wires. We first stared to try to just match the wire colors, but some were too close to tell where they might go. So we then started at the engine and used a multi-meter to test connectivity, and was able to start dividing the wires by components. Being a novice, I was trying to connect all the wires to the ECM, but luckily, Terry was able to tell me which items are required to run the engine, which made it much easier. Once we got the wires divided, they started matching up with the ECM wires color wise. It is just so hard to find a pin-out of the ECM on the web. I found some that were close, but they always just a few that just did not match up color wise to the item they claimed to run. If we had taken the EMC at the same time as the engine, this would not be a problem. Hind sight. I figure to spend another week on this engine, and if we still can't even to get it to turn over, then back to the junk yard for the whole car. There are so many more wires on the ECM than the engine, since we are not using the AC compressor, nor the cruise control.
Well, have been studying the engine. Apparently these new engines require a small computer to run efficiently. So we went back to the junk yard to pull the ECM from the car we got the engine from, to find out that it had already been crushed. Not knowing any better we took one from another car of same make and model, but a year later (this is called foreshadowing.) Now I am trying to match the wires of the ECM to the engine, and being a novice...well it is slow going. If you are going to use an engine from a car to power your boat and looking at a car newer than 2000, then just buy the entire car and that way you can be sure to get all that you need. Or just spend the time to get everything from the car on the first trip. If the wiring doesn't work, then I am going to begin again with a new motor and do it that way. Luckily the ECM seems to have several wires the same color, so I was able to match up the coils, injectors, and several other items. Hopefully it will be enough to get the motor running. I may not need everything, such as the sensors and such. Course can't test the auto transmission till the engine is running. There was a large bundle of wires running into the passenger area to the ECM, a bundle of about 100 wires. We first stared to try to just match the wire colors, but some were too close to tell where they might go. So we then started at the engine and used a multi-meter to test connectivity, and was able to start dividing the wires by components. Being a novice, I was trying to connect all the wires to the ECM, but luckily, Terry was able to tell me which items are required to run the engine, which made it much easier. Once we got the wires divided, they started matching up with the ECM wires color wise. It is just so hard to find a pin-out of the ECM on the web. I found some that were close, but they always just a few that just did not match up color wise to the item they claimed to run. If we had taken the EMC at the same time as the engine, this would not be a problem. Hind sight. I figure to spend another week on this engine, and if we still can't even to get it to turn over, then back to the junk yard for the whole car. There are so many more wires on the ECM than the engine, since we are not using the AC compressor, nor the cruise control.
6/30/2018
Praise the Lord! Good News! Been trying to figure out the wiring and was able to get the starter to work via the ignition key. When I tried to wire up the rest of the engine, I kept blowing the 30A fuse, so went to the auto store for more. While there, I saw the section of auto books, and I remembered using one to work on my car about 25+ years ago. Wondering if they might have the one I needed, I saw Haynes auto books, and found the one I needed. Using that book I have about finished wiring everything up. It was such a boost of confidence to have the wire colors actually match both the book and engine. I have only to finish wiring the power and I can test the engine again. I will post what all I needed to have wired to run the engine once I am sure everything works.
Praise the Lord! Good News! Been trying to figure out the wiring and was able to get the starter to work via the ignition key. When I tried to wire up the rest of the engine, I kept blowing the 30A fuse, so went to the auto store for more. While there, I saw the section of auto books, and I remembered using one to work on my car about 25+ years ago. Wondering if they might have the one I needed, I saw Haynes auto books, and found the one I needed. Using that book I have about finished wiring everything up. It was such a boost of confidence to have the wire colors actually match both the book and engine. I have only to finish wiring the power and I can test the engine again. I will post what all I needed to have wired to run the engine once I am sure everything works.
7/4/2018
Happy fourth of July! Still can't seem to get the engine to start. Seems not getting any fuel. Read some more and found out that for fuel injection type engines, you need a fuel pump to force the gas in at around 45psi to start the motor. So, sent away for a inline fuel pump, and now busy seeing how to wire in the new relays needed for that. Also found out that each diagram only showed the connections for starting, and running, but if taken together, there were several connections I had missed. So now need to add a few fuses that were not in the relay box I took from under the hood. Have made a new diagram for the wiring, which includes all connections, and if it works will post that. Parts should be in sometime next week. Wish me luck.
Happy fourth of July! Still can't seem to get the engine to start. Seems not getting any fuel. Read some more and found out that for fuel injection type engines, you need a fuel pump to force the gas in at around 45psi to start the motor. So, sent away for a inline fuel pump, and now busy seeing how to wire in the new relays needed for that. Also found out that each diagram only showed the connections for starting, and running, but if taken together, there were several connections I had missed. So now need to add a few fuses that were not in the relay box I took from under the hood. Have made a new diagram for the wiring, which includes all connections, and if it works will post that. Parts should be in sometime next week. Wish me luck.
7/12/2018 Good news, I have learned to read. I have spent the last three weeks digging up all information on what the pin and wires coming out of the ECU (Electronic Control Module) and have been getting very few if not confusing results. I finally took a trip to the Toyota repair shop to see if they could pull up the info, to be told that Lexus was a priority, and must go there. But luckily the guy said I most likely would not, since they would only be able to provide the part number and nothing else. He told me the best luck would be at the library. Have not been in one in thirty years, but gave it a shot. There were books, but not with the info I needed. Info Lady helped look on web, only to find best source was a diagram I had already printed out two weeks ago. But after looking at it with new eyes, I saw it did indeed look very close to what I needed. Back home started studying the diagram and began to compare it with Haynes Repair Manual, to discover that I had been misinterpreting some of they symbols. What I had thought was references to connectors turned out to be the pins from the ECU. I was so excited I could not help giggle like a little girl as I compared the book to the ECU itself, and surprise, surprise, the wire colors began to match. I have now rewired the ECU to the motor, fuse and relay box, the ignition key, and added the newly arrive fuel pump. Everything seems to work now, even the fuel pump came on and turned off 2 seconds after I stopped trying to start the engine, just as it should. Next step is to hook up the fuel pump to the engine and to rig up the water hose from the faucet to the engine. It seems like I am getting so close to actually starting the engine. I will post some of the diagrams and charts I have made.
1mz-fe_ecu_wiring.docx | |
File Size: | 102 kb |
File Type: | docx |
7/23/2018 Still have not got the motor to start. Have gone back and rechecked wiring. Think I may see the problem, but it has been over 100 degrees for the last week , so have mainly tried to stay indoors. Terry has been on vacation for last two week, but if he comes back today, maybe I will brave the heat.
7/27/2018
Alrighty then. I think I may have found my problem. We have decided to try to use the diagnostic connector to see if we could find the problem. In researching how to wire it up before I make a trip to the junk yard, I saw also that there is a device called the immobilizer. Being curious, I read this is an anti-theft device that reads a sign from the rf chip in a key and relays it to the ecu. If the ecu does not receive this signal, then the ecu will not allow the engine to get fuel nor ignite. I researched how to reprogram the ecu to accept another key, but junk yards do not keep keys, so would have to buy one, and have to open ecu to hook to my computer to reprogram it. I found a kit on line where you can upgrade your car to a remote push button start. Comes with all parts needed, including a by-pass. Sounds like the solution I need, so now just waiting for kit to be delivered.
Alrighty then. I think I may have found my problem. We have decided to try to use the diagnostic connector to see if we could find the problem. In researching how to wire it up before I make a trip to the junk yard, I saw also that there is a device called the immobilizer. Being curious, I read this is an anti-theft device that reads a sign from the rf chip in a key and relays it to the ecu. If the ecu does not receive this signal, then the ecu will not allow the engine to get fuel nor ignite. I researched how to reprogram the ecu to accept another key, but junk yards do not keep keys, so would have to buy one, and have to open ecu to hook to my computer to reprogram it. I found a kit on line where you can upgrade your car to a remote push button start. Comes with all parts needed, including a by-pass. Sounds like the solution I need, so now just waiting for kit to be delivered.
8/20/2018
Been trying to reprogram the chip on the ecu that contains the codes for the RF chip that would have been in the ignition key. Still waiting for a part to come in from China that should let me use my computer to do the reprogramming. Of course this may not fix the problem requiring me to rig up a transponder and reprogram the ecu to accept the new code. I was sitting thinking today, and I heard God ask me, " Phil, when did Toyota started using the transponder ignition keys?" What an idea. I never would have thought to seek out when they began using this theft deterent. Turns out it was 1998, and if I had gotten the ecu out of the 1997 Lexus at the same time I got the engine, I would never have had this problem. I am now thinking as long as the engine is the same, any older ecu should work. So going back to junk yard Wednesday to get an older ecu and connecting wire harness. I have also ordered the Haynes manual for Toyota Camry 1993-1996, which should have the pins, so I can wire it up. And after further research, I can chose to get a ecu from 92-97 Lexus es 300, 93-97 Camry. or 94-97 Avalon. These are the cars that carry the 1mz-fe and are covered in the book I ordered.
Been trying to reprogram the chip on the ecu that contains the codes for the RF chip that would have been in the ignition key. Still waiting for a part to come in from China that should let me use my computer to do the reprogramming. Of course this may not fix the problem requiring me to rig up a transponder and reprogram the ecu to accept the new code. I was sitting thinking today, and I heard God ask me, " Phil, when did Toyota started using the transponder ignition keys?" What an idea. I never would have thought to seek out when they began using this theft deterent. Turns out it was 1998, and if I had gotten the ecu out of the 1997 Lexus at the same time I got the engine, I would never have had this problem. I am now thinking as long as the engine is the same, any older ecu should work. So going back to junk yard Wednesday to get an older ecu and connecting wire harness. I have also ordered the Haynes manual for Toyota Camry 1993-1996, which should have the pins, so I can wire it up. And after further research, I can chose to get a ecu from 92-97 Lexus es 300, 93-97 Camry. or 94-97 Avalon. These are the cars that carry the 1mz-fe and are covered in the book I ordered.
8/26/2018
Success! Finally got motor running! After doing research, found I was looking for an ecu that used four connectors, and used a standard key. Searching the junkyard, we found a 1998 Camry with the very ecu we needed. Immediately wired it in and the engine actually turned over and gave three putts. Reinspecting my wiring work, I discovered I had swapped two wires, both were grey, and tonight was the night the little engine ran! Would have ran it for several minutes to celebrate, but without any coolant, did not want to over heat the engine.
Success! Finally got motor running! After doing research, found I was looking for an ecu that used four connectors, and used a standard key. Searching the junkyard, we found a 1998 Camry with the very ecu we needed. Immediately wired it in and the engine actually turned over and gave three putts. Reinspecting my wiring work, I discovered I had swapped two wires, both were grey, and tonight was the night the little engine ran! Would have ran it for several minutes to celebrate, but without any coolant, did not want to over heat the engine.